A Journey into the Remote Pacific Jungles of Colombia’s Chocó
After a few weeks of exploring colourful Medellin, we decided to take Miya on another adventure – to the lush jungles of the Colombian coast. Matt had been researching the Chocó - a remote, biodiverse area, and found us a charming-looking eco-focused guesthouse with a secluded beach – Morromico.
The only way to access the region is through a short 45-minute flight [with San German Express] from downtown Medellin to the town of Nuqui and then a panga ride to the bay where the guesthouse is located.
We had been in an urban environment for a while in Mexico City and Medellin, so disconnecting in nature seemed like an idyllic way to start the new year. We were also enthusiastic about introducing Miya to nature – to sand, the ocean and wilderness – things that we love as her parents. There would be many firsts for our little girl, and we felt exhilarated at the idea that she would be going on yet another adventure with us in this world.
The journey started with a few hiccups. Our flight to Nuqui ended up being delayed for close to four hours. We showed up at the airport at 8:30 for our 10:30 am flight, but the plane didn’t take off until 2:30 in the afternoon. We moved back and forth between the lounge and the gate, feeling nervous as the departure time kept on being pushed back. There was a storm in the Chocó, and the pilots didn’t want to take a risk.
Understandably so, Miya grew increasingly agitated as the hours passed. Her sweet coos turned into frustrated cries as we rocked and walked her around in circles in the airport. Two sympathetic nuns took us under their wing. They flew back and forth often to support a church and Catholic school in the area.
One of the nuns chatted with Matt for a while about the Chocó and what to expect. The one nun spoke to Miya affectionately, and her frustrations faded temporarily. She fell asleep as we walked towards our plane.
Our flight to Nuqui was on a tiny 18-seat propeller plane. There were only about seven rows. It might have been a Russian plane, as all the signage was Russian. After we waited for hours, everyone piled into the aircraft swiftly, and we took off almost immediately. I held Miya tight and covered her ears as the loud propellers blared in the background. Matt held her hand and stroked her little legs.
The flight itself was spectacular. We could see all of Medellin below – the Centro and the miles and miles of barrios and buildings stacked up the hills. The scenery evolved into rolling hills and mountains of the lush, green Andes. Below, all we could see were little spots of fincas and farmlands high in the mountains.
Then, after 15 to 20 minutes, the backdrop changed again into snaking rivers and vast wetlands before transitioning into miles and miles of thick, green jungle. We were mesmerized.
The cabin pressure was intense, and my ears burned from the pressure changes. Unfortunately, Miya had woken up from what appeared to be a blissful nap. She cried a bit, but we encouraged her to suck through the pain using her pacifier. I held her close, and we sang and hushed her back to a sense of calm. From across the row, our kind nuns looked at her lovingly.
Before we knew it, we landed right in the thick jungle. Suddenly, a runway appeared out of nowhere. Just as quickly as we left and took off from Medellin, we arrived in Nuqui at a busy, chaotic little airport.
It was humid and cloudy, and we could feel the underlying heat. In the background, we heard vivid, rhythmic music. We only got a few second glimpses of Nuqui before we jumped on a speedboat to Morromico.
I was slightly afraid that Miya would be frightened on the speedboat, but she loved it. She stared left and right under a jacket we used to protect her from the wind and splashing.
Every time she bounced slightly in my lap, her eyes became wider. The ride was stunning. We were surrounded by vast jungles and miles of aquamarine coastline stretching across a calm, shimmery ocean.
After about 30 minutes, we landed in a quiet paradise – a secluded volcanic dark-sand beach with rolling turquoise waters. We settled in our open-air bungalow and, against a cloudy sunset, rushed to prepare
Miya’s last feeding and bath before her bedtime. She fell asleep to the sounds of the jungle and ocean – a real-life white noise machine. Breast pumping was a bit difficult without the capability to wash bottles easily, but we made due. It was only for two nights.
Our stay at Morromico was, unfortunately, very short. We were there for a day and a half, so we tried to make the most of our time. Morromico is run by a kind Colombian family – the Montoyas. The guesthouse focuses on sustainable ecotourism and employs many of its staff from local communities.
The whole family – a mother, Gloria and her three children – Pablo, Sebastian and Melissa are involved with running the business. Meals are all communal and shared with the family – lovely meals centred around vegetables, fruit and freshly-caught fish.
The next day, we took our baby girl for a morning walk on the beach. Watching her stare into the ocean and the expansive stretch of patterned sand that had appeared with the low tide was poetic. Little hermit crabs ran back and forth into their little sand holes.
One of Miya’s favourite toys is a crab from Matt’s parents that scuttles around the room and lights up. We pointed out the real-life crabs to her and watched as our baby’s eyes gently darted back and forth with all the movement.
I wonder what she processed, how she felt as the humid salt-tinged ocean air swirled around us, and the waves rocked back and forth calmly in her peripheral view as we held her close.
Later that morning, we rode a boat to the adjacent protected national park – Utría. Visitors can walk through mangrove trails, snorkel coral reefs, and relax on beaches. From July to October, there can be humpback whale sightings. Pablo told us there is a beach with a high concentration of turtle egg hatchings. The area, however, is protected and is only accessible by researchers.
The Chocó is considered the wettest place on earth and hosts an array of unique, endemic, and yet-to-be-discovered species – like dart frogs, jaguars, and sloths - within its thick, dense wilderness. If we had more time, I am sure we would have discovered a lot more animals.
We took it easy, though and visited a white-sanded beach. Here, we laid down a blanket and let Miya stare at the rolling waves. She rolled around slightly and caught her feet in the sand.
I fussed a bit with the sand on her foot since she tends to suck her feet these days. But we quickly dipped her toes in the ocean water, and the sand washed away. Miya didn’t react much to the feeling of the ocean water. But she did love Matt lifting her down to the water. She giggled and cooed ever so slightly.
Even though it was cloudy, the sun peaked through passively. The heat was slightly overwhelming, so we had to take some breaks in the shade. Miya looked overheated in our carrier, but as soon as we laid her down in the shade and fanned her a bit, she started cooing and giggling again. We took one more walk through the mangroves before returning to our beach.
A few hours later, heavy rains came. We called it an early night and fell asleep again to the peaceful sounds of the ocean and the jungle. I think these were some of Miya’s most peaceful nights of sleep.
For me, it was a bonding moment. We didn’t bring our travel crib. She slept in the bed with me under the mosquito net while Matt slept in an adjacent cot. I adored watching her sleep with such serenity. I stared at her little face, feeling nothing but warmth and happiness until I fell asleep myself to the sound of the ocean rolling back and forth.
Just as quickly as we arrived, we had to say goodbye to this utopia. Matt and I discussed later that this would be the perfect place for Miya when she grows up a little. We will take her back when she can swim, squeal at animals, and run around the beach.
We, too, wanted to spend some more time visiting the surrounding indigenous communities to see the local fisherman. It’s such an incredible, remote place with so much to discover.
The flight back to Medellin was much quicker this time around. There were no delays – we took off at 1 pm and were back at our apartment in Medellin around 2:30 pm.
Our last obstacle was not the cabin pressure this time. Miya fell asleep for the landing, but not before making a huge mess in her diaper. Matt and I debated waiting to change her, but she was visibly uncomfortable. We made a mid-air change – the final cherry on top of what was the quickest family adventure.
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